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2007 En Sante Winery Green Envy

04.09.09


I know it’s a little unfair to compare apples to oranges. And, well, it’s really more exactly like comparing grapes to alfalfa. Yeah. Alfalfa wine. I know. Let it be noted that I’m and old-world, old-school kind of guy when it comes to wine, and generally am not interested in new and innovative products that try to reinvent what in my opinion has already been refined for hundreds of years elsewhere. But an alfalfa wine. And I scored it 92-94+ points.



On the nose: One of the most notable items is the level of concentration on the nose – this is a big, complex wine, regardless of its vegetative origin. It frequently and intensely showed honeyed apricot as a good late harvest or ice wine might have from Alsace, Canada, or Sauterne. But this wine has a complexity and intriguing character to it that I’ve only found in very high-end wines from some very respected wine regions in France. It’s remarkably brightly grassy and floral – two elements that don’t usually show up together. Overall, the nose is phenomenal, scoring somewhere in the 93-95 point range for me.

The palate: Also well concentrated, and lots of similar elements show up. One notable item is that it doesn’t have the searing acidity that some dessert and even other fruit wines from Canada have. I happen to like acidity, so although a bit more acidity would likely be desirable here for me, the lack thereof will likely please a broader audience. There’s lots of sugar here, and in my opinion, this isn’t a peer of white wine. This is a dessert wine, no question in my mind. Honey, apricot, and tea on the finish after a half hour or so. It’s dessert. And a fine one at that. The structure is not nearly as much a strong point as the aromatics.


Add to all that pontificating that it’s organic, and one of the only wines produced in my home-province by a winery that’s having to create itself an industry. Quite the start.

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