Sub-Zero Fresh Pork Sausage Making

KevinCharcuterie, From Local Farms, From the Cellar, Nature's Green Acres, Pork, Sausage6 Comments

Coincidentally, when Allan called me about his blood glut problem, I already had pork from the recent pig-butchering on deck – slated for Rhulman’s ‘Master Pork Sausage’. Truth is, I had purchased a new meat grinder from Halford’s and I wanted to give it a go really badly. So the morning before making all that blood sausage, I was at home making this.

Two notable pieces here for me. First was timing and location. I woke up to -3C, and rather than fuss with chilling everything throughout the process, I decided to simply do it all outside in the natural walk-in freezer that living up north provides at this time of year. Other than my hands being slightly painfully cold, I was pleased at how cold everything was throughout the process – an important element to proper sausage making not just for health safety but for texture. Having decided this was to be my location of choice for many months of the year, I christened my outdoor patio table with screw holes to mount my sausage stuffer. Making sausage in the frost is a treat, and darn sensible.

The second notable piece: recipe evolution. I’m a big fan of ‘Charcuterie‘, but generally have found the garlic amounts to be way too forceful for my palate and nose. This batch I reduced it by half. Half. That’s a significant change. And know what? It still makes my freezer stink when wrapped and packed in there. I still find it garlicky. Which begged the question of whether or not I even want garlic in my fresh sausage.  We just put leek and onion in the blood sausage – and I quite prefer that allium approach to garlic, not just in sausage, but in my day-to-day cooking. There are leeks in my garden that need to be used up. This initial doubt then begged whether the book’s recommendation of good red wine in the sausage was a good one – I would not generally pair fresh pork sausage with red wine, so why put it in it? The thought of a big Shiraz in the pork sausage literally makes me think: ‘ew’. I immediately thought: apple wine. Way better pairing imo [as would be most white wines], and introduces a terroir element. I wondered why no fresh herbs [abundant right now, but not once we get snow]. Add to that a slight tone down in salt, and I think I’m onto a recipe that will speak to my family’s palate [and my own], have something to say about time and place with all the flavors having come from our yard in the late fall.

Took more meat out of the freezer – can’t wait to give this theoretically lovely recipe a go.

6 Comments on “Sub-Zero Fresh Pork Sausage Making”

  1. Mel

    I definitely agree with your decision to not dump a bottle of heavy red in that sausage. All the oak and ripe fruit would totally drown out any subtle nuances in the meat. Your apple wine is probably a fantastic choice. I could see a cool-climate Riesling, Pinot Gris, or unoaked Chardonnay (read: Chablis) also working fairly well.

  2. Pingback: Cellaring Cheese « Kevin Kossowan

  3. Jennifer (whirliegig)

    Ah, you’re three steps ahead of me! We’ll be doing a pig next month and I’m really looking forward to the experience. Thanks for the advice on the apple press. Looks sharp! Now you’ve just plain old tempted me to consider getting more apples just for wine!

  4. A Canadian Foodie

    So, did you put the red wine in the first batch that is in your freezer. I am understanding you did, but only changed the recipe by halving the garlic. Your post read like poetry to me. I loved the last line “… have something to say about time and place with all the flavors having come from our yard in the late fall.” That grinder I would love to give a whirl at! WHOO-HOO! Good for you, Kevin. I loved making sausage and am all over it. But, I am a garlic fiend. Not, the more garlic the better, but some sausage with intense garlic are a beautiful thing, to me. But, I love subtlety, too. You have such a way with flavour. Of course your local apple wine is superior to a full bodied red with your own butchered pork and home grown herbs and onion. I want to do ours on the 13 of Nov as that is my first free day around here, and I hope to accomplish a few kinds then. What an incredible aroma must be wafting your way when you open those cellar doors… although you did freeze this batch… will you cure the next?

  5. Kevin

    All of the fresh sausage [ie, no instacure #2], is either eaten fresh, or frozen to enjoy later. Those that are to be dry-cured are made differently [with the critical instacure #2].
    I look forward to hearing about your experience on the 13th!

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